Information about the materials I use


Here you can find information about the materials I use, why I use them, and the properties they have which may effect the way the finished product will look, feel and function. I will also from time to time use other leathers for limited edition runs... I will explain the properties of these in the product descriptions.

If you have any questions about any of the materials I use, then please feel free to drop me an email!

 

LEATHER

Horween Dublin & Derby

Horween was founded in 1905, and is one of the oldest continuously running tanneries in the USA. They produce a huge range of articles using their unique tanning processes.
I use four vegetable tanned Horween leathers from the Dublin & Derby range (Dublin is smoother, whereas Derby is "tumbled" created a more rugged, distressed surface) for all my pocket knife slips & organisers. It is also available as the outer piece of bi-fold wallets. As it is a thicker leather, it is not available for use in most of my wallets.
Derby & Dublin both age gracefully, whilst being soft, tough and hardwearing. As with most leathers, the lighter colours will darken more with use.

Badalassi Carlo Pueblo 
Pueblo is one of my favourite leathers to use. It is produced by the Badalassi Carlo tannery in Tuscany, Italy who only make 100% vegetable tanned articles, using age old traditional techniques.
When new, Pueblo has a unique, slightly rough, rustic surface... with use this quickly develops a beautiful patina, smoothening out and darkening significantly. Depending on how much the leather is handled, the change can be quite dramatic! Don't select this leather is want your wallet to remain looking as it does new, but if like many people you appreciate the way quality veg tan leather ages, then this is the choice for you.
Pueblo is a lighter weight leather, and is available as an option for all my wallets and notebook covers. I also use it as the pockets/slots for my EDC organisers.
Badalassi Carlo Minerva Smooth
Minerva is produced by the Badalassi Carlo tannery in Tuscany, Italy who only make 100% vegetable tanned articles, using age old traditional techniques. 
Minerva has a smooth, natural surface with an aniline finish, which showcases the beauty of natural veg tan leather to the fullest, it is one of the most historic articles that Badalassi Carlo produce. It has a soft temper, so is flexible, making it perfect for card holders, internal pockets of bi-fold wallets, and slots in EDC organisers. Whilst is will not age as dramatically as Pueblo, it will still darken with use, the colours will become brighter, and the surface will become smoother and shinier.
This is available as an option for all my wallets, notebook covers and pockets on EDC organisers.
Conceria la Bretagna Ghost
Conceria la Bretagna have been producing fine quality articles is Tuscany Italy since 1961. The make a huge range of products using traditional and modern techniques.
Ghost is a really fascinating leather. The base is a smooth, firm tempered vegetable tanned cow hide, which is dyed through in a range of colours. The surface is then coated in a layer of white wax. Through use, this wax will slowly rub away, creating a unique patina, especially where there are objects pushing through the leather from the other side. Eventually you will be left with the base colour of the leather, with only traces of the white wax left.
Available as an option for all my wallets and notebook covers, Ghost is a great choice if you want to see the journey it takes through use. 

THREAD

I only use Ritza Tiger thread, produced by Julias Koch in the Ukraine. It is a very strong, tightly braided waxed polyester thread. It has a flat profile, so sits very flat to the surface of the leather, and through my experience is the best and strongest option for making durable leather goods.

OTHER MATERIALS

I exclusively use Seiwa Bond Ace glue in all my products, which in my opinion is the market leader in strong, leather craft specifically glues.

For burnishing the edges of my products I use Seiwa Tokonole, which is simply the best burnishing agent on the market. Its non-toxic, propriety formula bonds the fibres of the edge of the leather to stop it from fraying, whilst creating a visually appealing, glossy finish.